Roksanda Ilincic at the V&A
Credits: Pictures: Style.com, Painting: Raphael, The Death of Ananias (1515), Collage: Alize Morand.
As I entered the large mosaic-paved room, impressed by the church-like high ceiling and the massive Raphael paintings from the 16th century that surrounded me, I knew I was about to witness a very special fashion show.
Once seated, I noticed amongst the fashionable crowd two of the major trends of the season around me: very high ankle boots and fur chapkas – it was a very cold day.
Last Friday, the Victoria & Albert Museum was hosting one of the most talented young designer’s show: Roksanda Ilincic. Originally from Serbia, the Central Saint Martins graduate had been known at London Fashion Week for her performance shows and glamourous draped dresses.
As the lights suddenly faded out, and a chord of classical music strained in the silence of the room, three male ballet dancers from the English National Ballet gracefully appeared on the runway, soon followed by young ballerinas in flowing jewel-coloured silk dresses.
The whole show was an alternation of dancers and models all wearing Roksanda’s gorgeous creations of Fall/Winter 08 and Spring/Summer 09, creating a contrast between the tiny dancers in ballet flats and the tall models high on red-sole vertiginous heels à la Louboutin.
The highlights of the show were fairy-like romantic dresses in sheer dusty pink, feathers and flowers and a highly covetable first outfit: a fur mini dress-coat belted by a large fuschia silk bow and worn with opaque black tights and cobalt blue ankle boots.
While the whole show was surreal and gorgeous, the end was really magical: a ballerina sporting a wedding-like bubble tulle, silk and ruffled dress light as a feather slowly walked down the runway to finally bend down on the catwalk in a very moving performance.
Roksanda’s appearance was then welcome with deserved applause, as all the dancers and models joined together on the runway for a colourful and joyful final.
Raphael around us approved of that modern day masterpiece: a perfect way to show that fashion is art.